Reflexions On Life

Orango Island

2007-02-03T16:32:00.000+01:00

I always love to find out about the customs of other cultures, and a very interesting one I came across today was from Orango Island which is part of an archipelago off the coast of West Africa, where women, not men, choose their partner. I really liked the explanation of a 65 year old man who had been proposed to half a century ago.

"Love comes first into the heart of the woman," he explained. "Once it's in the woman, only then can it jump into the man."

What is really interesting is that the adage "The way to a man's heart is through his stomach" is actually practiced here. When he was 14, the girl entered his grass-covered hut and placed a plate of steaming fish in front of him. "I had no feelings for her," said Nananghe, now 65. "Then when I ate this meal, it was like lightning. I wanted only her."

Back again

2007-02-03T16:26:00.000+01:00

I'm finally in the mood for blogging again. I don't know how regular I will be, but if you find anything in particular that is interesting, please let me know. This encourages me and will quite likely make it impossible for me to keep quiet. "Don't get me started" :)

Our Man in Tirana

2006-01-13T20:58:00.000+01:00

There are many interesting blogs and websites that help you to see the world through the eyes of others. For anyone interested in seeing some nice pictures and reading some interesting stories about Tirana, please take some time to visit Alwyn Thomson's blog. I have also include him under my links for easy reference.

Number One World Traveller

2006-01-13T13:09:00.000+01:00

Since in Albania there are a number of sites that have been named UNESCO World Heritage sites, I was surfing the net and stumbled across an amazing site. This is sure to relegate most of our travelling to insignificance! He has visited many countries and places, but of the 812 sites inscribed by the World Heritage Committee, Galen R. Frysinger of Sheboygan, Wisconsin has visited 279 of them in 95 different countries. This was as of July 1st of 2005. In total he has travelled to 169 independent countries and 91 dependencies (perhaps even more by now). In addition to this, he has seen fit to share his memories and photos with the rest of us.

He has compiled an amazing collection of his photos in his website, giving you hours of enjoyment! If you enjoy armchair travelling, or are looking for a unique place to visit on your next vacation, please join me in touring Galen's site. His homepage gives you access to many other wonderful places. An amazing journey. Enjoy!!

Coal Mining in China

2006-01-03T18:13:00.000+01:00

My heart goes out to the families of the coal miners trapped and possibly, but every hour less likely, still alive in West Virginia. In the west we have come a long way towards providing for mine safety and improved working conditions in coal mining. Anyone having read of any of the historical coal mining conditions in the British Isles a few centuries ago, will appreciate this. Still no comfort for the families and loved ones of those in peril at the moment.

Being an admirer of the economic development of China during the past decade, I am also aware of the conditions under which they are labouring. Coal mine accidents in China during 2003 took the lives of over 6,000 people. The first 10 months of 2004 took the lives of over 4,000 workers.

Still, in my mind I remembered that numbers were much higher than that. Doing some more research I found out that I had remembered the numbers better than the facts. In fact, coal mining is the most deadly job in China. China, which produces about 35% of the world's coal, reports 80% of the total deaths in coal mining accidents. The death rate for every 100 tons of coal produced in China is 100 times that of the U.S.A.

In addition to this, there are 600,000 miners suffering from pneumoconiosis, a disease of the lungs caused by long-continued inhalation of dust. And the figure increases by 70,000 miners every year.

I am sure that most of us will remember the dramatic rescue of the trapped miners in Pennsylvania in July of 2002. I hope for that the present rescue attempts in West Virginia will have the same success.

Sangria??

2006-01-03T16:00:00.000+01:00

When you are in another country, you have to make do with what you have. With the nice weather today, I felt like a tropical fruit drink.

I used my wife's Cranberry juice as a base. Some wine from Slovakia, a gift from Eva (a colleague in Bratislava) for Christmas, which just wasn't to my taste by itself. Some local moonshine (Raki... which I have a year's supply of by now) and a dash of local orange liqueur, which sells for about $3.00 a bottle. Not a bad sangria on a sunshiny day, overlooking the palmtrees at the Piazza down below.

Eating Albanian style

2006-01-03T13:53:00.000+01:00

Being in new countries it is always interesting to discover local cuisine. In Albania there is a lot of good Italian cooking. This has been brought back by the emigrants, who work there and come back here, having been taught well.

This last week, looking for something new, I asked the waiter to suggest something that he really liked. Somewhat embarrassed, he offered me to 'prova' a baked dish of heart, kidney and liver pieces mixed with ricotta, tomatoes, some onion and garlic, and who knows what else. He was surprised when I really liked it.

Today was a beautiful sunshiny day in Tirana, with everyone sitting outside basking in the 15 degree weather. I had my usual, and with it I ordered a side dish of tomato, onion, some paprika and hot peppers cooked in..... ricotta of course. Delicious and a great way to start the new year. All of this, with a beer, for less than $10.00 - Canadian even!!!

This rivals the Qofte Korce (Korce style meatballs - nicely spiced) that I like as well. I still miss the Romanian 'Ciorba de burta' - Sour tripe soup, but with a few of the local Albanian delicacies, I am very happy.

P.S. I know that my wife just can't wait to come back here to enjoy the weather, and try these dishes... or to prepare some of her own.

Is the U.S.A. under Martial Law?

2006-01-02T16:28:00.000+01:00

In school we learned that the US Government had a number of checks and balances which makes keeps a balance of power. I found a nice website which explains it very simply. The three branches of US Government that deal with different aspects of governing are the legislative, executive and judicial branches. The Legislative branch (U.S. Congress) passes new laws. The Executive branch, headed by the U.S. president, enforces them. The Judicial branch, headed by the U.S. Supreme Court, interprets them.

If you understand this, you understand the concerns that are being raised about the Spy program (wire-tapping or eavesdropping) that President Bush has ordered in 2002. The Executive branch took a decision. It seems that they consulted some members of the Legislative branch, but completely disregarded the Judicial branch. Normally they would need a court order, with sufficient evidence to warrant the execution of this order. Of course, having declared War on Terror, it was considered expedient to short cut this process. Is the U.S.A. officially under martial law? Do the people know this? In one of his statements the president states that this permission to eavesdrop will continue until the war has been won. This can be a very long time. Considering the nature of terrorism, and the 'guerilla' warfare that is being fought, my guess is that it will never be over.

It will be interesting to see how this develops. Of course, the argument used is that this is all in the interests of National Security. Then why don't all countries do this? Usually it is only the countries that are classified as a dictatorship that use this argument. They also spy in the interest of National Security. Lord Acton, considered by many to be one of the great thinkers and historians of the 19th century, became famous to succeeding generations for his observation that "power tends to corrupt, and absolute power corrupts absolutely."

Anyone in the shoes of the president may have made the same decision. As a Canadian I still remember that Pierre Trudeau declared martial law under terrorist circumstances. I also know that we survived it and that life continues with little thought about the FLQ and its impact on us over 30 years ago.

History will tell the story of this age. Will the balance of power be maintained? Is this the first step of many leading to disaster? Or, as a friend of mine often says, "This too shall pass"?

A tribute to Sri Lanka

2005-12-26T10:25:00.000+01:00

With so many images of the devastating Tsunami in South East Asia last year, I cannot help reminiscing about the Sri Lanka that we and our friends came to know.

Sri Lanka used to be known by the name of Ceylon, and before that as Serendip. The word serendipity is derived from this word, and is defined as "the ability to make pleasant and unexpected discoveries entirely by chance". We were fortunate that some of our friends moved here and invited us to visit with them on this beautiful island. Understandably, my wife and some of her girlfriends visited them many times! An island of over 20 million people, we fell in love with it and have many happy memories of it.

Having lived in Eastern European countries for many years, we were immediately struck by the happy faces of children and adults alike. Our impression was that they were content in their spirit, though poor of economic means.

The Sinhala alphabet is derived from the Brahmi script, and when we first saw it both my wife and I described it as an alphabet of happy faces. This was our impression of this lovely island and its people.

We visited the old fort of Galle on the very southern tip of Sri Lanka. This was a Portuguese port in the 16th century, and then captured by the Dutch. Being of Dutch descent, this of course interested me very much. We were excited to find a Dutch Reformed church. There were memorials to some of the old sea captains that had sailed the high seas transporting spices from Bavaria and Galle for the Dutch East India Company.

The road from Colombo to Galle is lined with huts and small shops, where the local people eke out a living. Behind these huts you can see the beach with its many small fishing boats.

We also saw some of the young boys fishing on a rock, not deterred by the splashing waves. They were probably enjoying the cooling effect these had on their sun drenched bodies.

We went inland to Kandy, an ancient city near the centre of the island, and well protected by the mountains surrounding it.

The wonderful pictures are the courtesy of my talented wife. As you can see, the evenings in the mountains had a mystical quality to them. This former capital is considered the cultural centre of Sri Lanka. We stayed at a former tea plantation and enjoyed the mixture of spicy aromas on the way. Here we stayed in an 'apartment' which included servant quarters and our own butler, who gracefully offered to draw a bath for my wife. We were somewhat overwhelmed by the size of the apartment which easily was over 100 square meters. Amazingly, the cost per night was not even half of what we would pay for a simple room at most 5-star hotels.

A magical country, with a long and interesting history. We certainly hope to visit it again in the future. If you ever have the opportunity, I strongly recommend that you do the same.

America a "hypocrisy"

2005-12-18T19:37:00.000+01:00

Listening to George Bush defend his decision to give permission to the 'Secret Police' to spy on fellow citizens, I was surprised to hear a Democrat actually admit that after all, America is a "hypocrisy".

This made me think about the freedom that they had always stood for, and now this freedom has become their own prison. I remember that during the sixties the Eastern Bloc nations were accused of spying on their own people, and that this was thought of as the 'big brother' that George Orwell wrote about in his book '1984'. Indeed, now it is being openly admitted by a Democrat that America is a hypocrisy.

If I remember correctly, it was John F. Kennedy who differentiated America from the Soviet Union, as America would never go to war to conquer another nation in order to impose its ideology on another nation. That was a long time ago. Too long ago.

I am sad for the many good people that live in the U.S. The freedom that they have fought for has been taken away from them. First by the terrorists; now by their president.

"Sorry dear... did you say something? Democracy? He didn't say hypocrisy, but democracy?"

"Never mind."

"Jungle Child" by Sabine Kuegler

2005-12-18T18:41:00.000+01:00

Some of the best travelling can be done at home with a good book. Sabine Kuegler has written about her journey in life in this delightful excursion to her childhood in Irian Jaya. Growing up she experiences the culture shock of western life, and searches for those elusive moments of inner peace. A must read for all fellow travellers!

Exiled to Albania

2005-12-03T17:06:00.000+01:00

In my last post I made reference to Sabbatai Zevi, a self-proclaimed Messiah who was intent on capturing Istanbul in 1666. At the insistence of the Sultan he became a Muslim, and adopted the name of Aziz Mehmed Effendi.

A friend suggested that I read "Rescue in Albania" which reports the heroism of the Albanians in protecting Jews from the holocaust during WWII. In recounting the history of the Jews in Albania, I again read about our friend Sabbatai Zevi. In 1673 he was exiled to Albania. Three years later he died in Berat, the town of a thousand eyes, a beautiful treasure worth visiting!

What I didn't know was that Sabbatai Zevi's assumed tomb has become a shrine for the Bektashi, who are a Sufi order of Dervishes in Albania.

"Balthasar's Odyssey" by Amin Maalouf

2005-11-29T22:00:00.000+01:00

I just finished reading an interesting story woven around historical fact. Written by Amin Maalouf who was born in Beirut as a Catholic Arab, the book is set in the years 1665-6, and takes you from the Middle East, to Istanbul, to Genoa, Amsterdam, England and back again. It covers an interesting period of history, and is woven around the belief that the world would come to an end in the Year of the Beast, which was 1666.

Central to the story is the Genoan bookseller, born and raised in the Levant, and his search for a book banned in the Ottoman empire. He meets up with the influential Sabbatai Zevi who claims to be the Jewish Messiah and was converted to Islam, purportedly to avoid execution. An interesting belief expressed in the book is that the 7 Roman numerals, listed in order from largest to smallest, are MDCLXVI, 1666, representing the fullness of time. Beliefs from the Russian Orthodox were that the world would not be destroyed by water, but this time by fire.

Interestly, this happens to be the year that 80% of London was destroyed by fire.

An interesting story and for anyone interested in the interaction of early Christians, Jews and Arabs.

Some other books that are interesting reading and will give you an understanding of this part of the world.

Balkan Ghosts by Robert D. Kaplan - a book aiming to give the reader an understanding of the psychology of the Balkan peoples.

Salonica, City of Ghosts by Mark Mazower - A history of the city of Thessaloniki, the birthplace of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the leader who transformed Turkey into a secular state. This book is a history of this crossroads of cultures in the Balkans and takes you from the 15th century to the decimation of the Jewish population of this city during World War II.

During the 19th century, this part of the world started opening up to classical scholars and other travellers. While we were in the Netherlands, Kim and I picked up 2 large volumes which record the travels and observations of Abraham Kuyper, Om de Oude Wereldzee - loosely translated as "Around the Meditterenean".

If anyone knows of any other interesting reading please let me know.

Hot Banking

2005-11-17T07:00:00.000+01:00

Life has many humourous moments. We have been working hard to set up a call centre, and are having some problems in obtaining the desired '0900' numbers. These numbers will appear on all our countrywide advertising, both TV spots as well as other media.

Yesterday the person I hired to manage the call centre was briefing me on the progress with training the new staff. Everything is going well, but there was some concern discussed among them. What could that be, I wondered? Well, they weren't sure whether the '0900' number was exactly the image a respectable company wanted to portray? And what image is that, I wondered? Well, the truth of the matter is, '0900' numbers are used exclusively for entertainment purposes!! Needless to say, we will use a different number :)

Gjirokastra and Saranda

2005-11-13T18:00:00.000+01:00

Although the experience of the tinted windows dominated my thoughts initially, that is now over. I had set out to visit a number of our branches in the south of the country.

We stayed overnight in the old city of Gjirokastra, which is one of the Albanian cities that has recently been declared a UNESCO World Heritage City. This historic town is one of very few well preserved Ottoman towns. There is a large 13th century castle on the hill, and the town spreads down the hill away from the castle. The slate roofs are made from local stone, and make this town very unique. The views from the mountain are great.

This unique town is the birthplace of Enver Hoxha, the communist dictator of the last half century. He is still revered by many of the locals. Gjirokastra also spawned Ismail Kadare, who is well known in literary circles as one of Albania's modern day novelists.

We had beautiful sunny weather and enjoyed our lunch on a summer terrace. From there we went to Saranda, which is a beach town, close to the Greek Island Corfu. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and we had a cup of coffee at the beach restaurant in 80 degree weather surrounded by palm trees. It didn't feel like the middle of November at all! This is a beautiful little beach town which dates back to ancient greek times.

Just to the south of Saranda there are the ruins of the ancient city Butrint. When Becky visited us in the summer we took this same route and visited the archeological site at Butrint, as well as Gjirokastra and Berat, which is the city of a thousand windows. Indeed, Albania is a treasure still waiting to be discovered by the rest of the world.

I am looking forward to visiting the rest of our branches. We have 85 branches and agencies scattered throughout the country, and I am now in the process of restructuring them. This means visiting all the regions and most of the major branches during the next 6 months. Hopefully all of them. I hope you enjoy the journey with me.

Implementing Change in Albania

2005-11-13T01:30:00.000+01:00

I arranged to meet this morning with the General Director of the State Police to discuss our 'incident' of yesterday. After apologizing for the misunderstanding, we had a good discussion about the implementation of change in the country. I can sympathize with many of them, as I am experiencing similar challenges in transforming our company from a (former) state institution into a private business. Changing IT systems is the easy part. It is changing the way people think and behave that is a much bigger challenge. A large part of our job is also to educate the customers, or in many cases, the potential customers. Trusting banks is not automatic in this part of the world. The same can be said for trusting the police.

A very intelligent and capable man, he has a huge task ahead of him, and many challenges to overcome. Enforcing the law against 'darkened' windows in cars is only one of them, and it is understandable that there will be misunderstandings. The biggest problem is that the law does not distinguish between darkened and tinted windows. This is something they will work on defining now. Even when it has been defined, how do you measure it? In North America the police would have a digital reader that would be able to accurately determine the percentage of tinting of the window. Here the measurement is done by sight and personal judgement. In total, over 500 cars were stopped yesterday.

Darkened windows are popularly used by criminals. A policeman approaching such a car must use extreme caution, as he cannot see who is in the car and whether they are armed or not. Definitely a position of extreme disadvantage. In fighting crime and corruption, regulating the use of darkened or tinted windows is only a small part of it.

Despite my feelings yesterday that the tactics used were more reminiscent of a police state than of a democratic state, I recognize that we are in a transition phase and managing the change is a challenging process. After meeting with the General Director I have a good feeling about the person in charge of these changes and that they are on the right track.

Interestingly, he told me that he used to work for the bank that we have now bought. He was the Head of Security finished law school during that time. After the 1997 crisis, during which the country was at war with itself, he was asked to help revamp the police force in the north of the country. Now he is in charge of the total state police force. From my first impressions of him, I would summarize him as a good professional, and a good man.

Oh yes... and our 'misunderstanding' of yesterday will be resolved.

Albania's War on Terrorism

2005-11-12T09:00:00.000+01:00

Early this summer we had elections in Albania, and our new leader is coming down hard on corruption and crime. Speedboats have been banned from the Adriatic, and now it has been decreed that blackened windows or curtains are no longer permitted in your car. Considering that this was so far permitted in Albania means that there are many vehicles not in compliance. Having taken over the vehicle driven by one of the former directors of our company, I had not really taken not of the windows until today.

I was visiting some of our branches in the south of the country, and was stopped at a checkpoint by a contingent of police, a number of which were pointing their sub-machine guns at us. My driver explained to them who he was driving and after a short conversation, they let us pass. I had thought that this would be the end of it. About 2 hours from home we were stopped at another checkpoint.

This time we did not pass so easily. The driver was asked to leave the vehicle and had to produce his papers. These, as well as the vehicle, were threatened to be confiscated. Coincidentally closely behind us there was a senior official from the crime investigation unit. He stopped and had a loud discussion with the police 'encouraging' them to let us through. As he had no authority over them, and as they were under strict orders, he had no success.

My assistant explained to me later on that they were not impressed at all as to my position, as they figured that anyone being driven in a vehicle like this either had to be a criminal or corrupt, and since the new government is fighting both corruption and crime, I was fair game.

I applaud all efforts that are being made in this regard, and I can understand that it is possible that mistakes are made. It took a phonecall from one of my staff to the State Chief of Police (who just happened to be in a meeting which the local Police chief was also attending) to sort out the issue. Tomorrow I will meet with him to thank him for saving me, and how we can make sure that we avoid such misunderstandings in the future.

Exiled in Romania? (update)

2005-11-12T08:30:00.000+01:00

With all the discussions regarding CIA prison camps in Eastern Europe, (now rumours are also including Albania) I immediately thought of the secret activity that we witnessed in Constanta while we were in Romania. This sister city to Rotterdam has not yet been confirmed as one of the sites, but the rumours persist. If indeed it is found to be true, it will not be the first time in history that this city has been used as a place of punishment.

This Black Sea port city close to the Danube Delta has a long history. Known as Tomis in Roman times, it dates to the 6th century B.C. It was the city to which Ovidius, the Roman poet, was banned by the Augustus in AD 8. At that time it was referred to as the 'ends of the earth'. It was to this period that his most famous work 'Metamorphoses' was written. He writes of the desolation and loneliness here, and was finally to die in exile.

I have found a site containing his "Poems From Exile" and find that the Tomis that he describes in no way resembles the Romania that I know and experienced. This only shows that global warming has been happening for many millenia. Just a short excerpt from his letter to Rufinus about 4 years into his exile sounds more like a Siberian exile or the northern tundras of Canada.

"I’m here, abandoned, on the furthest shores of the world, where the buried earth carries perpetual snowfall. No fields bear fruit, or sweet grapes, here, no willows green the banks, no oaks the hills. Nor can you celebrate the sea rather than the land, the sunless waters ever heaving with the winds’ madness. Wherever you look are uncultivated levels, and the vast plains that no one owns."

Now again Tomis is possibly being used as a prison and place of exile.

Memories of Romania

2005-11-06T06:00:00.000+01:00

Sometimes it is nice to browse through your memory (reminisce). A few years ago we visited a project started by one of our friends, Leslie Hawke, among the Roma (gypsies) of Bacau, a city in the north of Romania. She took us to one of the projects that she was involved in. It was a city housing development for the Roma. Not fancy, but a roof over their heads.

The problem was that there was no heat in the houses, which were only 2 small rooms per family. The project was to build a combination fireplace and stove for cooking. Cooking was done on a very unsafe electrical coil, which was also used to heat the rooms.... unsuccessfully.

As outsiders, we received lots of attention, not only from the many children, but also the parents. One man urgently wanted our attention, and we visited his home. He introduced us to his wife and 8 children, and proudly showed us his home, which indeed had 3 rooms. The fireplace combined with stove would only heat 2 of the rooms, and would not keep his family warm.

He explained that he only wanted the material and that he wanted to build his own fireplace. This was leading to complications because the housing development belonged to the city, and they must approve any changes. There are also very obvious fire safety concerns. The development was a tinderbox, and any fire would destroy it in a very short time.

He seemed very sure of his ability to build an appropriate fireplace, but was unable to convince the authorities. Trying to be helpful, I suggested that if he could draw a picture of the fireplace he wanted to build, we may be able to have the design approved by the city. When this was explained to him, his wife burst out laughing and said, "Let us first build it and then we can draw you a hundred pictures!!" Not being schooled in conceptual design, drawing before building was not possible.

Now 2 of the younger children are attending the school started by Leslie Hawke. This is one of the many successes that Leslie has had in her labour of love. Vladiana

Recently Leslie has been honoured for her work, which she has now extended to the Roma in Bucharest. For more information, please read the following article. Leslie

Bakshish - tip or bribe?

2005-11-05T14:00:00.000+01:00

A common concept in Albania is bakshish. This is the way of doing business in the Arab world. In Romania they called it 'spaga'. Normally the western world translates it as 'bribe', and looks on it as evidence of the corruption in the east.

In Romania I always referred to it as 'tip before the service', basically taking the sting out of it and recognizing it as a way of doing business, though unacceptable by most standards. The feeling of local people towards 'oiling the wheels' of business was definitely not the same as that of the foreigners.

Not surprisingly, the same is true for Albania. Kim had an interesting experience when she made a purchase at a small grocery store and left a small tip for the clerk. The young girl went to one of her colleagues and excitedly showed her 'first bakshish'! Since then I have observed on a number of occasions that a simple tip is referred to as bakshish.

Doing some further inquiry into the use of the word, I have found out that it also refers to the giving of alms.... or charity! Now we have 3 uses for the word. Tip, charity, and bribe. It is interesting that we have 3 words for this, and in the east one word is sufficient.

Twin Towers in Tirana

2005-11-05T04:30:00.000+01:00

This week there was an article in the local newspaper which reported the appropriation of a portion of the 'Twin Towers', which is one of the most luxurious buildings in the city. It must be noted that this building has only opened recently and there is not a real reason for it to be named after the Twin Towers in New York which met their end as a result of a terrorist attack four years ago.

It appears that the Albanian government is appropriating the property from an Arabian national who received an Albanian citizenship two years ago. This person has been discovered to have connections with the Al Kaeda network economic infrastructure. This cannot really come as a surprise. I had thought that the naming of the building was somewhat strange.

Albania moves against terrorists' assets (SETimes.com)

Just a sandwich

2005-10-24T04:30:00.000+02:00

We have chosen to live in an local neighbourhood. This helps us to experience life a little bit more from an Albanian standpoint. Not much more, you may argue, and I must agree.

We have noted that there are a lot of children here. They are very friendly and eager to show off their few words of English. Not all of the children are fortunate enough to go to school. There are a number of children that are earning their living on the street by selling gum or candy, or washing car windshields. Others beg.

Today it was raining. Two of the young children were still out on the street. The girl looks no more than 6 or 7, while her little brother (I assume) looks like he is only 3. In fact they could be a few years older, but not much. They were hanging around the sandwich shop, but I could tell that some of the staff were trying to get them to move on. Understandably not good for business.

I asked one of the girls whether the children might want a sandwich. She asked the little boy, and he shook his head signifying 'no' in English, but 'po' (yes) in Albanian. Due to the western influence, even the girl was not sure what he meant. She asked him if he meant 'po'. Again he shook his head 'no'. The hungry look in his eyes showed that he definitely meant 'po'. After giving him a warm sandwich to share with his sister, she let me know that her heart bleeds for these two children.

On my way home I saw the little boy and his sister savouring the sandwich. Two happy faces. I love this country.

Family Feud

2005-10-23T02:00:00.000+02:00

In Albania the phrase 'Family Feud' has an entirely different connotation from that of North America. The old laws still hold true and are referred to as 'Kanun Besa', or the 'Code of Honour'. The age-old blood feuds still are a part of everyday life for many people.

According to the blood feud laws, a death must be avenged by the death of a male member of the family responsible. They do however have a safety zone, which is their home. They may only be killed when they are outside of their home.

When cleaning up part of Tirana, one house was left standing in respect of this law. Removing the house would have resulted in a death sentence for the man living there. This summer I read a story of a man killed after 11 years as he stepped out of the house to do some gardening. During the elections this summer the only violence at the voting booths was 'Besa' related. Most of us are familiar with 'justifiable homicides', or 'temporary insanity' pleas. The murder of a wife's lover is still seen as a murder of passion, and considered by many as 'understandable'.

The victims of this Code of Honour are often innocent male children. Today we read in the news that a school for 'self-isolated children' has been opened in a town south of Tirana. As many as 100 students can attend this school, and many will be brought from the north of the country, where the Code of Honour is still the law that rules. A police station has opened in the town in order to ensure protection for these children. Without this, they would have no opportunity at a formal education. A sign of progress for Albania!

Scotsman.com News - The Balkans - New honour code aims to cut killings

War on Syria and Iran?

2005-10-22T18:00:00.000+02:00

The UN has issued a 53 page report linking the Syrian government to the assassination of former Lebanese Prime Minister Rafik Hariri. Just like George Bush was looking for an excuse to invade Iraq, he has been looking for an excuse to attack Syria. Now he has it. What is the truth? Will history show that the CIA trained these Syrian assassins, just like the CIA trained Osama Bin Laden in Afghanistan? The CIA has an unfortunate history of covert involvement in South America, central America, the middle east, north Africa and eastern Europe just to mention a few. One of the questions historians may ask is whether it was better to be an ally or an enemy of the US. Next on the hit list is Iran.

BBC NEWS Middle East US demands action on Syria report

Bird Flu in the Balkans

2005-10-22T17:00:00.000+02:00

The bird flu scare is inching towards the heart of Europe. Already it has reached the Balkans, with reports in Greece and Croatia. The threat of human contamination remains. BBC reports the possibility that the flu epidemic of 1918-19, which killed as many as 50 million people, was probably (possibly?) a strain that originated with birds.

BBC NEWS Health 1918 killer flu 'came from birds'
A story in our local paper reported 200 turkeys died near a farm in Vlora, which is a city just south of us in Albania. After the initial scare, it is now reported that these turkeys were not infected by the flu virus. Being forcefed olives and nuts for New Year's dinner, they appear to have choked to death. What more can I say?

Political correctness in the Netherlands

2005-10-19T12:30:00.000+02:00

Having lived in the Netherlands for a number of years, and often being aware of my own Canadian political correctness, today I read a story that brought made me smile.

On Tuesday morning, the Dutch version of the Big Brother reality show featured the birth of a little sister. Aside from the normal celebrations and and joy that such an event spawns, the Dutch work ministry became involved. Since the participants agree by contract to be subjected to 24/7 surveillance, the ministry ruled that if born in the house, the baby could not be filmed around the clock as this would constitute child labour, banned in the Netherlands.

The labour, as I see it, was done primarily by the mother. If sleeping for 22 hours of the day, which I sincerely hope for the mother that the baby does, is considered as labour, so be it.

(If you are wondering why I am blogging in the middle of the day... today is 'Mother Teresa Day' in honour of a wonderful Albanian lady who laboured with love among the lepers of Calcutta)

The Peninsula On-line: Qatar's leading English Daily

Lake Ohrid, Albania

2005-10-19T07:30:00.000+02:00

Today I left early for some business meetings in Pogradec and Korca. The road from Tirana to Korca is about a 4 hour drive. This is far less than the Via Ignatia would have taken in Roman times. The ancient Via Ignatia is the continuation of the Via Appia, starts in Durres, and was the road connecting Rome with Thessaloniki.

Along the way it is interesting to see the many terraced mountain faces. I was told that these terraces were introduced to Albania in the past 50 years. They were inspired by the Chinese comrads, and were created by the thousands of students participating in the 'actions' showing patriotism for the fatherland. Similar programs were staged throughout the country, producing railroads and highways, as well as beautiful olive groves in the south.

Situated on the border with Macedonia, Lake Ohrid is the Balkan Peninsula's deepest lake at about 286 meters, and one of the largest at 349 sq km. It is the largest of 3 tectonic lakes and is 695 meters above sea level. Cold, clear and transparent, it is fed by the springs of Lake Prespa which is about150 meters higher.

We stopped for a taste of delicious Koran, which is a lake trout found only here. There are a number of species of fish and other life forms that have survived from the tertiary period. As a result this lake is also known as the museum of living fossils.

Our final destination was Korce. This was the city where Enver Hoxha started the communist revolution which has marked the more recent history of Albania. A mere 50 years when we consider its rich heritage and history. A grueling lifetime for those who experienced it.

Development of Society in Europe

2005-10-18T07:00:00.000+02:00

Many different lines have been drawn in Europe during the past few millenia. The southern Roman Empire was separated from the northern barbarians. The Western Catholic Church was split from the Eastern Church. The northern Protestants were separated from the southern Catholics. The eastern communists were separated from the western capitalists.

What separates us now? Where should the lines be drawn? What caused the historical lines to be drawn? I don't have all the answers but there are some interesting patterns that are emerging. These revolve around the individualization of society.

During the Middle Ages and earlier society was a group of people protected or controlled by a powerful Lord, King, Knight or Bishop. As a result of the Reformation, the individual became important. Northern Europe was transformed as a result of this. The Catholic Church was influenced as well and followed with the Counter-Reformation. Interestingly, the Eastern Orthodox Churches were not impacted by either of these movements, both of which transformed society into individuals. Although there were differences in the religious development and the extent to which this individualization took place, this transformation led to the exploration, exploitation and colonization of the Americas, Australia, Asia and Africa. It also led to the industrial revolution of the European continent, and the protestant work ethic so well known in capitalistic circles.

Philosophically and idealistically the communist movement of the early twentieth century attempted to revolutionize society without the excesses of the capitalistic movement of the previous centuries. Interestingly it took its deepest hold on the Eastern Orthodox countries which did not experience the Reformation of the previous era. The countries in the communist bloc that rebelled the most were those that had already experienced a more individualistic society. Hungary, Czechoslovakia, Poland and Croatia all experienced revolts. In Eastern Germany it was necessary to build a special wall to 'keep out' the capitalists. Interestingly, in 1989, it was these countries that were the most ready to 'cross over'. In Romania, largely an Orthodox country, it was a Protestant pastor in Timisoara who was the catalyst to change and to their revolution.

Now we see new lines being drawn with the European Union. It is those countries that historically had developed into an individualized society that have made the best transition to a market economy. They had a head start. In this regards, Greece is still an exception to the rule, and have been a 'problem child' of the 70's.

I have lived for many years in Romania, and now live in Albania, where society is still emerging from Ottoman rule. By this I want to say that the development of society still has not experienced the same individualization as the west. This is neither good nor bad, just different. One of the comments I hear is that at least here people care for their family, not as in the west where the elderly are placed in a home. Not always an accurate assessment, but I think that many will hereby recognize a difference in perception and attitude that is prevalent in Albania. This is a country where blood feuds still exist, and legally the 'Kanun Besa' or 'Code of Honour' is still acknowledged.

Seeing these differences in social development help me to understand the way of thinking a bit better. Hence it grieves me that certain nations try to impose this development on certain cultures by force. Change that comes by revolution must be maintained by might, and will always breed opposition, while change that comes by evolution becomes deeply rooted in the psyche of society.

Update on the Danube Delta

2005-10-16T06:00:00.000+02:00

My heart cries out for the people of the Danube Delta. A virtual paradise on earth, with only the simplest things modern life has to offer, the delta region has been tainted by a deadly virus. I just read this article and cannot even begin to imagine what these people are experiencing at this time. Perhaps dwarfed by the utter devastation of the earthquakes, hurricanes and tsunamis of this past year, but a concern nonetheless.
Reuters AlertNet - Roosters no longer crow in Romanian delta village

A Life of Dreams

2005-10-16T05:30:00.000+02:00

Every morning I pass an elderly man living in a bus shelter. He has neatly organized his cardboard boxes and sleeps under their warmth. In the mornings he can be seen washing his feet by the side of the road. I often see him eating a banana or a bunch of grapes. Today I saw him wearing bandages on one of his feet. I have never seen him wearing shoes. I have asked some of my Albanian friends about him, but they don't know his story.
Another man, younger looking, probably in his forties, has been dubbed 'John the Baptist' by my wife. He speaks a bit of German. I was told that he was a professor, but lost all his wealth in the pyramid collapse in 1997. Along with his wealth, he lost his family and sanity. I gather that he had a nervous breakdown.
Their existence appears to be a day to day living off the generosity of others. I tried to put myself in their shoes, and could only imagine that they keep on going because they still have dreams. Are they waiting for family to return? Do they have children? Are they waiting for a loved one? Life must be lived for others. Who and what is it that still lives in their dreams? I don't know, but I am convinced that they have dreams and hopes like all of us, and these are what keeps them going from day to day. I hope that one day they may honour me with sharing these dreams with me. If I can find any way to get them closer to these dreams I will.

The Danube Delta

2005-10-09T21:00:00.000+02:00

Danube Delta Map - Romania Maps and views

The outbreak of bird flu among domestic ducks in the Danube Delta offers me an opportunity to travel down memory lane. The possibility of migratory birds carrying bird flu to all regions of the world is a very real fear among many.

The journey from the Black Forest mountains in Germany to the Black Sea is nearly 1,800 miles (2,860 km). The silt carried down the Danube (Donau) River has created an amazing wetland of 2,200 sq. miles (5,600 sq. km) which is made up of channels, lakes, reed islands, pastures, sand dunes, and even a semi-tropical ecosystem. This has become the home of over 300 species of birds and countless fish and plants, and is the nesting place of many migratory birds.

In the spring of 2002 we had the pleasure of taking a boat trip into this small paradise with Kim's parents. At one point we were surrounded by tens of thousands of white pelicans, an amazing experience. We also took a small side trip into the nesting place of countless cormorants and herons. This swampy rainforest reminded us of a mystical fairyland. No wonder that the Delta region has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Centre.

This area has been the home of fishermen for over 5,000 years. There are many small villages spread throughout the Delta region populated by about 12,000 people. About 200 years ago many Lipovans, or 'Old Believers', emigrated from Russia and settled in this region to escape religious persecution. In 2000, Kim and I visited Mila 23, a Lipoveni fishing community in the Delta, with some of my colleagues and their wives. The local priest was in coveralls and tending his garden, but took some time out to show us the community church. Of course the ladies were only allowed in the back of the church. The men, even though we did not have beards, were allowed into the middle part of the church. Only the priest could venture beyond that.
One of the Lipoveni women accompanied us as we walked through the village. A number of young men, riding bareback and wearing rubber boots, raced through the town. For us it was a journey into another world. With the outbreak of bird flu in this little paradise on earth, it is sadly brought to the reality of the modern world. But this too shall pass.

Bird flu strikes in Danube Delta

How secure are we?

2005-10-09T02:00:00.000+02:00

Mighty Dajti, guarding Tirana.

Having just started a new chapter in my life, this time in Albania, several of my staff did their best to impress me with the high level of criminality in the country... and of course, their own importance in ensuring my safety. Having been around the block a few times in my life already helped me to remain somewhat skeptical. The fact that less than two weeks before a businessman had been blown up (executed?) by a bomb in an elevator a few blocks from where we were staying did not impress me. The generally accepted version among expats was that he was connected to the criminal world. This could happen anywhere in the world.

Reviewing some contracts, I noted a small one for only $3,000 per year, but it was for the protection of an antenna. I consulted my Chief of Security and found out that this antenna was absolutely necessary for communication among our security staff. We need a private frequency for the transport of valuables, and this antenna on Mount Dajti, the mountain guarding the city, is used to facilitate this communication.

I made some inquiries with regards to this antenna and was told that it was purchased 10 years ago for approximately $1,500. Protecting this valuable asset for an annual fee of double its purchase price did not exactly interest me. When I voiced my concern in this regard I was assured that it was very necessary as mobile phone could be intercepted more easily. Not being convinced, and knowing that it was not publicly known that this antenna even existed, I wondered what would happen to the antenna if we did not pay this security company to keep it safe. I was told it would be vandalized and destroyed. But by whom I wondered? The only ones that even cared about the existence of this antenna were ourselves and the company protecting it. I can sense you smiling already as you realize that we were paying legitimate protection money.

Six months later I have still not renewed this contract, we are still using the antenna, and 'Mighty Dajti' is still standing.